Today we have the Starling Murmur. This is a weird one, but a cool one. I’m calling this the Oddball build. It’s got very few big-name parts on it — mostly smaller, fringe, and boutique brands. Things like Cast tires, Madrone derailleur bits, Pro taper bars, you get the point. And that’s really the whole appeal of this bike. The Murmur is simple, modular, durable, and about as cool as a mountain bike can be without trying too hard. But that simplicity also shows up on trail, for better and worse. So let’s talk about how this ultra-configurable steel full-suspension frame actually rides.

After a long and annoying battle with Pneumonia, I’m back on the bike and rolling. I’ve spent the last few weeks riding the Starling Murmur and configuring it a few different ways to get a good feel for it. This frame is a bit unique, so we will cover some basics before we dive into the ride review.

The Murmur is a full-suspension, full steel frame, which is rare. Most steel full-squish bikes use an alloy rear triangle for links and bearings. Instead, the Murmur goes with a basic single pivot design with adjustable shock mounts so you can run it in four configurations: 120mm (mini), 135mm (standard), 150mm (standard+), and 165mm (mega). 

We built ours with as few name-brand parts as possible, just for fun. We have an eclectic build starting with the Manitou suspension, Push Suspension, Cast tires, ProTaper cockpit, and Reynolds wheels. I also ran the bike in the mega mode and swapped the suspension to Push front and back. Oh, and not a single piece of carbon on the bike.


A full-steel, full-suspension mountain bike built around a simple single-pivot layout and adjustable travel configurations. I rode it as both a 135mm Murmur and a 165mm Mega Murmur, which makes the frame feel more like a platform than one fixed category bike.

Riders who like simple bikes, steel frames, oddball builds, and setups they can tinker with over time. The Murmur makes the most sense for someone who values character, adaptability, and handling feel more than the most refined suspension platform.

Buy it if you want a simple, durable, highly configurable steel frame with great handling and a ton of personality. Skip it if you want the most planted descender, the most polished suspension feel, or the obvious safe choice in either the trail or enduro category.

starling murmur mtb against a grey wall

After a long and annoying battle with Pneumonia, I’m back on the bike and rolling. I’ve spent the last few weeks riding the Starling Murmur and configuring it a few different ways to get a good feel for it. This frame is a bit unique, so we will cover some basics before we dive into the ride review.

The Murmur is a full-suspension, full steel frame, which is rare. Most steel full-squish bikes use an alloy rear triangle for links and bearings. Instead, the Murmur goes with a basic single pivot design with adjustable shock mounts so you can run it in four configurations: 120mm (mini), 135mm (standard), 150mm (standard+), and 165mm (mega). 

We built ours with as few name-brand parts as possible, just for fun. We have an eclectic build starting with the Manitou suspension, Push Suspension, Cast tires, ProTaper cockpit, and Reynolds wheels. I also ran the bike in the mega mode and swapped the suspension to Push front and back. Oh, and not a single piece of carbon on the bike.

Geometry (Size xL)

  • Wheel Configuration: 29” front / 29” rear
  • Rear Travel: 135mm Standard / 165mm Mega
  • Front Travel: 150mm Standard setup / 170mm Mega setup
  • Head Tube Angle: 64.1°
  • Effective Seat Tube Angle: 77.2°
  • Reach: 515mm
  • Chainstay Length: 455mm
  • Wheelbase: 1308mm
  • BB Drop: 28mm
  • Stack: 656mm

Specs (Oddball build)

  • Frame: Full-steel Starling Murmur, single-pivot suspension, adjustable shock mounts
  • Fork: Manitou Mezzer / Push Nine.One for Mega testing
  • Shock: Coil and air shock tested / Manitou mara Pro for standard. Push 11.6 for Mega testing
  • Drivetrain: Madrone derailleur bits
  • Brakes: Hayes Dominion A4
  • Wheels: Reynolds
  • Tires: Pirelli Cast
  • Cockpit: ProTaper
  • Dropper: PNW Components Loam Dropper

Setup Notes

  • Rider weight: 195 lbs
  • Sag: 30% rear / 15% front
  • Tire pressure: 25 psi front / 27 psi rear

The frame is comfortable, quiet, and provides a good body position. What it lacks is a bit of rear wheel traction with my setup. We will get to that in the suspension section, though. I noticed the bike sits a bit high and resists getting into the squishy bits. The back wheel can bounce around from time to time. That said, it’s fairly efficient in my setup as well, which certainly doesn’t hurt.

The uphill handling and control are one of the bike’s strong suits. It’s easy to keep the front wheel down and going where you want it to. In the mega configuration, the front end felt a bit more wandery and the handling a bit more sluggish, but that’s to be expected. It was still better than other big bikes I’ve ridden. 

I gave the bike a 0 because the pros and cons offset each other here. 

I rode the Murmur in both the 135mm standard setup and the 165mm Mega setup. And honestly, the overall personality of the bike stayed more similar than I expected. The Mega setup obviously gives you more travel, but neither version turns the Murmur into a hard-charging plow bike.

I think that comes down more to suspension than geometry. The geometry is long and slack enough to give the bike confidence, and the steel frame has a quiet, muted feel that seems to take some vibration out of the trail. On smoother, faster sections, the Murmur feels comfortable and composed.

But when the trail gets rougher, and the hits get bigger, it doesn’t feel as planted or controlled as some bikes in these travel categories. It doesn’t really encourage you to smash through everything. It rewards a little more line choice, a little more precision, and a little less blind commitment.

So I’m giving it a 0 here. The geometry and frame feel help it, but the suspension keeps it from being a standout descender.

This was my biggest hangup with the bike. The Murmur has a pretty narrow setup window. I could run it with less sag to keep it from using too much travel, but then it sat high, felt firmer, and gave up traction and comfort. Or I could run it softer, get the grip and smoothness I wanted, and then run into the end of the travel too often.

That’s where the simple single-pivot layout shows up. There just aren’t as many levers to pull in the frame design, especially when it comes to progression, so more of the ride quality gets pushed onto shock choice and setup. I tried it with both coil and air, and I never quite found the best-of-both-worlds setting I wanted.

Now, I do think this could work really well for a certain rider. If you want plush and smooth, and you’re not constantly hitting jumps, drops, or rough lines at speed, you could run the bike softer and let the simple suspension layout and muted steel frame turn the trail into a bit of a magic carpet.

For me, though, I wanted more progression. I wanted a little more support in the middle of the stroke and more resistance at the end. The Murmur gave me comfort or control, but I had a hard time getting both at the same time.

Handling is the Murmur’s strongest ride quality for me. The bike feels responsive, predictable, and fairly playful. It’s easy to initiate a corner and get the bike leaned over.

Once you get it leaned over, it holds its line well. It doesn’t require a bunch of mid-corner corrections.

It’s also easy to get the Murmur off the ground, and it responds well to rider input. Even with the steel frame and burly build, it doesn’t feel dead or dull. From a handling and fun perspective, this is one of the bike’s best qualities.

The murmur wins all of the versatility points. Mostly because of how many different ways you can build it up. It’s rare that a single frame can run four different travel lengths. 

But the versatility is not just about travel numbers. The bike’s simplicity makes it feel less locked into one specific category. You can build it light-ish and trail-focused, or you can push it into a bigger, burlier setup. It won’t become the absolute best bike in either direction, but it gives you a lot of wiggle room.

That’s the appeal. The Murmur feels very adaptable and less niche. It doesn’t specialize as much as some modern bikes, but for the right rider, that’s a feature. Build it how you want, point it at the trail in front of you, and go ride. 

The murmur earns some points here as well. I’ve got a soft spot for simple bikes. Especially simple, steel bikes. They look cool, feel cool, and ultimately make you cool….maybe. Aside from cool points, steel is tough, repairable, and long-lasting. Plus, they’re all built in the UK, which is a nice touch. 

That stuff won’t matter to everyone, but it absolutely matters to the kind of rider who is already looking at a Starling.

Because this bike has so many oddball components on it, I do want to mention a few standouts. Not something I usually do, but that’s because most bikes I get to ride are plastered with name-brand stuff that most folks are already familiar with. 

I haven’t seen these tires getting the love they deserve, but the Cast tires, made by Pirelli, are quickly rising to the top of my list. I have them on my Yeti LTe as well as this bike. They remind me quite a bit of the newer Continental stuff. The rubber is grippy, and I haven’t had issues with flats. So in my mind, I can’t ask for more. 

I’ve really been struggling to find brakes I like lately, and the Hayes Dominions on the Murmur have given me zero reasons to complain so far. In my opinion, brakes are a go/no-go component. If they work reliably, they get a “go” in my book. If they are inconsistent, if they constantly need to be bled, I dont care how much power or modulation they offer, they get a “no-go.” The Hayes are still on my “go” list — which, to be honest, is very short these days.

The Murmur is a tricky bike to compare because it can live in a few different categories depending on how you build it. In the 135mm setup, it lines up more with mid-travel trail bikes. In the 165mm Mega setup, it starts creeping into long-travel enduro territory. So instead of forcing one comparison, I’m going to split it into both configurations.

Transition Smuggler vs Starling Murmur (135mm)

The Smuggler is probably the cleanest comparison for the 135mm Murmur. Both sit in that slightly awkward but useful space between short-travel trail bikes and bigger all-mountain bikes. They’re not as sharp and efficient as most 120mm bikes, and they’re not as confident in rough terrain as most 150mm bikes. They live in the middle.

The Smuggler feels a bit snappier on the pedals. It is likely the better climber. The Murmur has a quieter ride quality to it, though. It mutes the trail just a bit more and feels a bit more comfortable.


Transition spire vs Starling Murmur (165mm)

The Transition Spire comes to mind when discussing the 165mm configuration of the Murmur. Both of these are long travel 29ers, on the hefty and burly side of the spectrum. They aren’t trying to be as balanced or trail-friendly. I’d have to think the Spire is the more capable descender. It has slacker geometry, but I think most of that difference comes from the suspension. The Spire is plusher and more controlled through the entire stroke. The handling on the Murmur is undoubtedly quicker and lighter. It’s easier to corner and manage slower speed sections. 

So the Spire is better at being a full-on enduro bike. The Mega Murmur is better at being a weird, interesting Starling.


Rider Profile: The tinkerer

The first is the tinkerer. This rider spends as much time in the garage as they do on the trail. Half of the fun of MTB is tinkering and refining their setup. The Murmur offers so many different configurations and allows for more unique setups. The Murmur’s simplicity lets the frame fade into the background a bit, which makes individual component choices feel more noticeable. Shock setup, fork choice, tires, wheels, and cockpit all seem to have a bigger influence because the frame itself isn’t burying them under a complex suspension personality. For the rider who likes to experiment, the Murmur feels less like a finished product and more like an ongoing project.


Rider Profile: The trend bucker

The second group is the trend bucker. This is the rider who liked The Black Keys before “Lonely Boy.” The person wearing Blundstones before every coffee shop, trailhead, and preschool pickup line turned into a Boot convention. They like different for the sake of different. They like vibes and cool points. The Murmur provides maximum cool points and likely tickles that type of person’s fancy.


The Murmur is simple. And because it’s simple, it works in a wide range of situations. It’s versatile and adaptable. It’s not a niche performance-oriented bike, and the suspension design is a little basic, but for the right rider, that’s exactly what they want. The handling is a standout feature, making it a great option for folks who value the overall experience, not just shredding on the downhill. 

Is the Starling Murmur a trail bike or an enduro bike?

Kind of both, depending how you build it. The Murmur can be run in multiple travel configurations, from shorter-travel trail setups to the 165mm Mega Murmur configuration. In the 135mm setup, it feels more like a mid-travel trail bike. In Mega mode, it starts creeping into enduro territory, though it still keeps the same simple, steel, single-pivot personality.

How does the Starling Murmur descend?

The Murmur descends best when you ride with some precision. The geometry is long and slack enough to feel confident, and the steel frame gives the bike a quiet, muted ride feel. But it is not a full-on plow bike. In rougher terrain, the suspension does not feel as planted or controlled as some other bikes in the same travel range, so it rewards line choice more than blind commitment.

Is the Starling Murmur worth buying?

Yes, for the right rider. If you want a simple, durable, highly configurable steel frame with great handling and a ton of character, the Murmur makes a lot of sense. If you want the most refined suspension platform, the most planted descender, or the easiest bike to recommend on paper, there are probably better options.

Is the Starling Murmur a good climber?

The Murmur climbs well enough, but it is not the sharpest or most efficient climber in the category. The seated position is comfortable, the front wheel is easy to manage, and it feels fairly efficient. The tradeoff is rear-wheel traction. With my setup, the bike sat a little high in the travel and did not always settle into the ground the way I wanted.

Who is the Starling Murmur best for?

The Murmur is best for riders who like simple bikes, steel frames, oddball builds, and setups they can tinker with over time. It makes a lot of sense for someone who wants something adaptable and interesting rather than the most obvious or polished bike in the category.


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