This video actually started as a “which matters more, the frame or the components” idea. But the more I thought about it, the more it evolved. Now I think it’s really a frame vs components video — what should you spend your money on, and what should you upgrade first on your bike?
To test it, I’ve got two Ibis Ripmos. One alloy with cheaper components, and one carbon with all the blingy stuff. I rode them both a ton to set a baseline, then I swapped every component from one to the other. I wanted to see how much of the ride quality difference came from the frame versus the components.
And honestly? It’s pretty damn tough to say. I had a hard time telling much difference at all. My main takeaway is this: components don’t really matter. Or — I should say, components matter, but way less than you think. Your frame’s suspension kinematics and geometry trump everything else — the components, the frame material, even the paint color.
But that wouldn’t make for a very good video. I’d be done already, and you wouldn’t believe me anyway. So I took it a step further and broke down my experience by component group to help you decide which ones actually matter, and where you should prioritize your budget.
Because let’s be real — bikes are stupid expensive. I’m not a big fan of that. And I don’t think the best way to get performance is by dropping $11k on the fanciest build you can find. Instead, if you’re smart about your priorities, and you line them up with how you actually ride, you’ll not only get better performance — you’ll probably save some cash to spend on jet skis or something.
So with that, let’s dive into each category.
1. Frame Material
Between my alloy Ripmo AF and my carbon Ripmo V3, the ride differences were so subtle I hardly noticed them unless I was actively looking. The alloy felt a bit more muted — softer, smoother — while the carbon felt a touch more precise, snappier in corners. But it’s slight.
The real, measurable difference is in weight: the carbon frame comes in at about 7.6 lbs, and the alloy around 8.2 lbs — only about half a pound difference. That helps a little uphill, but once you’re rolling, there’s almost nothing to write home about.
At the end of the day, both frames ride as one cohesive system — geometry and kinematics still rule.
Takeaway: Frame material makes a difference, but not as much as you’d hope. If you’re chasing grams (which is silly), you can save a bit of weight. The ride feel is a bit different too — not better or worse, just different.
2. Drivetrain
Here’s the thing about drivetrains: they really don’t matter all that much.
I’ve got a cheap-as-hell Deore cable drivetrain on one bike and an expensive XO AXS on another. Both of them do the exact same thing — I push the shifter, the chain moves to a new gear. The end result is identical.
In fact, my Deore cable setup actually shifts faster. Sure, the AXS looks cleaner and it’s easier to set up, but in terms of actual trail performance, I don’t feel a benefit.
Takeaway: Don’t blow your budget here. Deore, GX, SLX — they’ll get you 95% of the way, and you’ll barely notice a difference compared to the top-tier stuff.
3. Suspension Components (not kinematics)
This isn’t about the frame design or suspension layout — it’s about the fork and shock themselves. And here’s my take: once you hit the entry level of “real” suspension — think Fox 36 Performance or RockShox Super Deluxe Select — you’re basically there.
Above that, you’re paying for more dials and adjustments, not huge performance gains. For the average rider, fewer knobs actually makes setup easier and keeps the ride more consistent.
If you’re a 240-pound racer smashing Whistler laps every weekend, sure — a Grip2 damper or Charger 3 might give you more control. But for 95% of us, the base-level high-end stuff works every bit as well.
Takeaway: Don’t get sucked into paying for Kashima coatings and more adjusters if you’re not going to use them. A well-set Performance fork rides better than a poorly set Factory one.
4. Wheels
Wheels are important, no question. A good set can transform how a bike feels. But carbon versus alloy isn’t as dramatic as marketing wants you to believe.
Carbon can make a bike feel sharper and quicker in corners, and I do love that snap. But they can also feel a bit harsher in the rough, and if they’re too stiff, they’ll ping you off rocks.
Lately I’ve been riding really solid alloy wheels, and I’m not sad about it. They’ve got a muted, forgiving feel that I actually like in chunkier terrain. The one thing carbon has in its favor is that it usually holds true longer, and warranties are great these days.
As for weight? We’re usually talking 200 grams or so — that’s 1 to 2% of total bike weight. Yes, it’s rotational, so you feel it more than if you pulled the weight off the frame, but it’s still not game-changing.
Takeaway: Pick wheels for feel and durability, not grams. Don’t expect carbon to magically make you faster.
5. Touchpoints (saddle, grips, pedals, dropper)
Touchpoints are some of the only components I truly care about. Because bad ones? They ruin a ride faster than anything. A sore ass, blistered hands, or pedals that don’t grip — you’re miserable.
This is where it gets personal: find a saddle, grips, and pedals that work for you, and put them on all your bikes. Comfort equals performance, because if you’re in pain or sliding around, you’re not riding at your best.
And let’s not forget droppers. They matter a lot. Get the biggest one you can fit in your bike, and make sure it’s reliable. A dropper that doesn’t work flat-out sucks. If you’re wondering where to put a chunk of money, skip the fancy drivetrain and buy a really good dropper.
Takeaway: Touchpoints are where comfort meets performance. Don’t cheap out here.
6. Tires
Tires are the number one component that actually changes ride quality. And it makes sense — they’re the only part of your bike that touches the ground.
Get tires that fit your style, terrain, and bike. Heavy casings might feel slow uphill, but they’ll pay dividends on the downhill, because nothing is slower than a flat tire.
If you’re lighter, less aggressive, or you rarely flat, you can get away with lighter casings that roll faster and climb easier. Align your tire choice with your riding, not with what’s flashy.
And don’t forget pressure. A great tire feels like trash at the wrong PSI. Too firm and it rides like wood, too soft and it folds and rolls. Tread patterns and rubber compounds matter, too — the wrong tread for your terrain will kill performance faster than casing choice.
Takeaway: Tires make the biggest difference on the trail. Prioritize them above almost everything else.
7. Brakes
Here’s my main takeaway with brakes: price does not equal performance.
Some expensive brakes are terrible. Some cheap brakes are amazing. The key is reliability and matching the right power and rotor size to your terrain.
I’ve had cheap Deores outperform pricey Mavens simply because the Deores were reliable and consistent. That’s what matters. Bigger rotors, the right pad compound, and brakes you can trust — that’s what actually changes performance.
Takeaway: Don’t shop brakes by price tag. Shop them by reliability, lever feel, modulation and power.
8. Cockpit (bars and stem)
Cockpit is another high-priority one for me. Good bars can take the sting out of the trail, and a stem that matches your fit and riding style makes a noticeable difference.
I’ve tested bars back-to-back and can confirm some reduce trail buzz significantly. That’s real performance — less fatigue, more control. Stem length also matters more than people think: the difference between a 35mm stem and a 60mm stem changes how a bike handles.
The good news is you don’t need to spend crazy money here. A great cockpit is around $150 for bars and $75 for a stem.
Takeaway: Cockpit setup is one of the easiest, most affordable ways to improve both comfort and performance.
Wrap-Up
So — do components matter? Yes, but not equally. Drivetrain and suspension bling? Mostly diminishing returns past a certain point. Wheels, touchpoints, tires, brakes, cockpit? That’s where you’ll really feel it.
At the end of the day, framedesign, kinematics, and geometry are the foundation. That’s what makes your bike ride the way it does. You can throw a different shock on there, carbon bits and bobs, and color-matching bolts, but it will still ride like the same bike. So spend the money on the bike you want based on how it rides. After that, spend your money on the parts you actually touch, your tires, your brakes, and your cockpit. The rest? Save your cash — and buy a jet ski. Buying expensive parts won’t make you better at bikes.
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